Where to stay in Madeira?

Accommodation in the island's capital

Of the nearly 300,000 Madeirans, over 100,000 live in the capital. Understandably, Funchal is by far Madeira's largest and most dynamic city, where many travelers choose to stay.

The city and its surroundings are home to the main cultural activities. These include

• the old town, with its pretty Praça municipo (Town Hall Square), small cathedral and tree-lined streets lined with old houses
• the small village of Monte, accessible by cable car or bus from downtown. In the heights, it is renowned for its tropical garden
• the marina, from which dolphin and whale-watching excursions depart, mainly from April to September
• the Mercado dos Lavradores, a colorful and friendly market, even if it has become rather touristy
• but also the fortress of São Tiago to the east, or the Cristiano Ronaldo museum, reserved for fans of the local footballer.

If you choose to stay in the city itself, you'll have easy access to all these places on foot. However, most of the large hotel complexes are located to the west, on the coast, along the Lido promenade. If you choose to stay in this type of accommodation, you'll be a little out of the way, and you' ll need a bus or car to get into town. When it comes to getting around the rest of the island, Madeira's capital occupies a fairly central position. All four corners of the island are less thanan hour awayby car, so it's easy to stay overnight and make day trips.

You can also easily get to the start of beautiful hikes in the mountains by car. For example, Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo, two of the highest peaks, are within easy reach of the capital.

As far as swimming is concerned, the resorts already mentioned all have lovely swimming pools. Otherwise, the pebble beach of Praia Formosa, to the west, is the only one available in the area. You don't choose to stay in the capital for its fine sand...

As far as theevening atmosphere is concerned, the capital is one of the few lively places, even if Madeira in general is not the target of party-goers. The marina, in particular, boasts a number of very pleasant restaurants and bars. This is also where you'll find the most stores and businesses of all kinds.

Finally, to return to the subject of where to stay, this is of course a town with a wide choice of accommodation, but it's also where the rates are the highest. If you plan ahead, however, you may be able to find a charming hotel in the old town or a nice room with a view in a large resort at a reasonable price.

To stay on Madeira's south coast: from Câmara de Lobos to Jardim do Mar

The south coast is the sunniest part of the island. It is dotted with pretty little ports, and visiting them along the seafront road is one of the must-do itineraries.A very attractive area, it's well worth staying a few days when touring Madeira.

Heading west, you'll discover, among others:

• Câmara De Lobos, where pretty, colorful boats provide a lovely backdrop to this old fishing town. One of Madeira's most charming (and photogenic) spots
• Ponto do Sol, with its soli small seafront
• Calheta, with one of the few (artificial) white-sand beaches in Madeira
• and finally, Jardim do Mar, reputed to be one of the prettiest villages on the coast.

The area is the starting point for numerous hikes in the mountains to the north. Most of these trails follow the course of the levadas, the historic canals needed for agriculture. Among the best-known is PR6, where you'll find the Levada das 25 Fontes and its many waterfalls.Note that you will often need a car to reach the entrance to the hiking trail.There are a few shuttles and buses, but they are too few and far between to meet demand.

These hikes are very popular with tourists, and the narrowness of some passages means that the route can be disrupted by too many visitors.So it's a good idea to stay close to the starting points. You can arrive early in the morning or leave later in the evening to avoid the crowds.

Small seaside resorts offer accommodation by the sea, and individual tourist rentals are also readily available. There are also plenty of small restaurants and bars dotting the coast.It's not all haute cuisine, but the atmosphere is often friendly.

The whole area is easy to reach from the capital, with a one-hour drive to Jardim do Mar. You can stay in the capital and visit the area on day trips.Public transport, in the form of buses, takes longer and doesn't go everywhere.

Accommodation on the east coast: from Machico to São Jorge

Madeira's second-largest city, Machico, is located in the north-east of the island. Dynamic, with plenty of accommodation and activities in the surrounding area, it's a good alternative to the capital to stay in when visiting the eastern part of the island.

In addition to accommodation, the area offers a wide range of outings, including :

• a visit to the old town center, with its many churches dating back to the 15th century, forts and pretty streets lined with old houses
• a walk along alevada, the island's famous canals. One of the simplest and most pleasant is to the seaside village of Caniçal.
• a magnificent view from the miradouro of Pico do Facho
• its sandy beach (imported from the Sahara, it seems)

Leaving the direct outskirts of the city, you can also explore the region:

• further north, the small towns of Porto da Cruz and São Jorge, where it's possible to find accommodation, even if the sites are rather isolated
• the villages of Faial and especially Santana, home to some typical Madeiran houses
• at the eastern end, the tip of São Lourenço (Saint Laurent), a natural park with a barren volcanic landscape.

You don't necessarily need to stay on site to visit these places, as they can be visited in the blink of an eye over the course of a day. However, Machico is a good place to stay if you want to extend your stay and enjoy the area a little more.

Finally, in terms of practical considerations when choosing where to stay in Madeira, Machico remains a small town. As a result, hotels are few and far between, and you're more likely to find bed-and-breakfast-style tourist rentals. However, if you plan ahead, you'll have options when it comes to choosing where to stay.

In terms of atmosphere, the town is lively and bustling, and you'll have no trouble finding a restaurant in the evening or a small shop open when you need one.

Last but not least, the bus station makes it easy to get to all the activities in the area by bus. If you've decided not to rent a car, it's a good idea to stay here. Even so, you should allow a good hour from the capital to reach the station.

To stay in the northwest: Porto Moniz and Seixal

The northwest coast is the wildest part of the island, and few visitors choose to stay here. However, it's a good place to stay for a few nights if you're looking for peace and quiet. You'll be able to enjoy the natural landscapes of sea and mountains, especially if you choose accommodation with a good location and a good view.

Here are the main places of interest in the area:

• at the northern tip, it's the small seaside resort of Porto Moniz and its natural volcanic pools that attract the most travelers. These pools are filled with seawater, heated by the sun and are great for swimming.
• the village of Seixal boasts a renowned black sand beach
• as elsewhere in Madeira, but particularly here, the coastal road offers some very fine miradouro views of the sea and surrounding mountains.

All these places are less than an hour's drive from the capital, so it's not necessarily necessary to try to stay in the area. However, it's not a bad idea for a stopover of one or more days on a tour of Madeira.

As the area is very quiet, you won't find many restaurants or shops, except in Porto Moniz, where you'll find a bit ofentertainment on the seafront.

To sum up, as in other outlying areas, it's not necessary to stay here, but there are plenty of places to stay, which make it easier to discover some nice, less touristy spots.

To stay on the beach in Porto Santo, off the coast of Madeira

As already mentioned, Madeira is not a tropical island with long white sandy beaches. If you're looking to sunbathe by the sea, Porto Santo is the place to stay for a few days.

This small strip of land is part of the Madeira archipelago and can be reached by plane or boat in 30 minutes or 2h30 respectively.

Its main attraction is a stretch of sand almost 10 km long, with transparent waters. Thanks to its favorable climate, Porto Santo has earned its reputation as a place for idleness.

Travellers can also take advantage of the few days they choose to stay here to :

• hike in the hills, which rise to almost 500m
• cycle the area
• enjoy water activities such as kayaking or sailing.

There are just 5,000 year-round inhabitants, but tourism is the main activity, and there are enough restaurants and bars on the seafront to make for pleasant evenings. Admittedly, the choice is limited. There are, however, a few large resorts and all-inclusive hotels, where travelers who have chosen to stay there tend to frequent the establishment's bars and restaurants. Tourist rentals are also available.

As you can see, staying in Porto Santo is best reserved for those who want to enjoy a beautiful beach and rest. However, you can still spend a day here, without staying overnight, to discover its beautiful surroundings. Schedule permitting.